Origins
Are you like me, a child who grew up inland? Never seen the ocean, yearning for surfing but feeling it's out of reach. Last summer, I finally took that step and began my surfing journey on Oahu, Hawaii.
As a true northerner, my knowledge of the ocean was limited to movies and documentaries. I remember the first time standing on Waikiki Beach, watching the waves rise and fall in the distance, feeling both excited and nervous. Those surfers gliding gracefully on the wave tips looked like ocean spirits.
Preparation
You should know that surfing isn't a sport you can start just by buying a board. I spent two full weeks preparing before actually getting in the water.
First was physical training. Surfing requires extreme core strength and balance. I did 50 push-ups and 100 sit-ups daily, and practiced standing on one leg for balance. Swimming is also an essential basic skill - I specifically practiced freestyle and breaststroke in the hotel pool to build a foundation for swimming in the ocean.
Next was theoretical learning. I enrolled in a beginner's course at a local experienced surf school. The instructor, Mike, a local with over 20 years of surfing experience, told me: "In Hawaii, surfing isn't just a sport, it's a way of life. Every child here starts surfing from an early age, just as naturally as inland kids learn to ride bikes."
Equipment
Regarding surfboard selection, here's an interesting story. When I first walked into the surf shop, I was overwhelmed by the dazzling array of surfboards. Shortboards, longboards, fish boards - all the technical terms left me confused.
Mike suggested I start with a soft board: "For beginners, an 8-9 foot foam soft board is the best choice. They have great buoyancy, stability, and won't hurt you if you accidentally hit yourself." I chose an 8.6-foot blue soft board, which cost $35 per day.
Sun protection is also crucial. Hawaii's sun is exceptionally strong, so I chose SPF 50+ waterproof sunscreen. I also prepared a rash guard, swim shorts, and non-slip shoes. Remember to choose athletic-fit rash guards, as loose clothing can restrict movement.
Getting Started
In our first lesson, we spent two hours training on the beach. Mike patiently taught us how to simulate paddling motions on the sand and how to quickly transition from lying to standing position. These basic movements seem simple but require extreme coordination.
"The most important part of surfing isn't standing up, it's learning to read the waves," Mike said. I didn't fully understand this until I got in the water. Waves have patterns - you need to learn to observe their shape, direction, and frequency to catch good waves at the right moment.
I remember falling rather ungracefully during my first attempt at standing. Seawater kept flooding my nose, leaving a salty, unpleasant taste. But when you first truly stand up, all that hardship becomes worth it. The feeling of gliding with the waves is like flying on water.
Progression
As I practiced more, I gradually mastered some basic techniques. For example, how to identify waves suitable for beginners - waves between 1-2 feet high, with regular shape and without too much lateral flow.
At Waikiki Beach, I met many surf enthusiasts from around the world. Sarah, a girl from Australia, told me: "The most fascinating thing about surfing is that you never know what experience the next wave will bring. Every time you get in the water is a new adventure."
Gains
After a month of learning, I could competently perform basic pop-up movements and even maintain balance briefly. More importantly, I gained a new understanding of the ocean.
Surfing taught me patience and humility. Humans are so small before the vast ocean. You must learn to respect nature, understand and adapt to its rules. As Hawaiians often say: "The ocean does not care how good you think you are."
Advice
If you want to try surfing, here are my suggestions:
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Choose suitable locations and timing. Waikiki Beach in Hawaii is recognized as one of the best places for beginners. The waves are relatively mild, water temperature is suitable, and professional surf schools are abundant.
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Always learn from professional instructors. Surfing may look simple, but it involves many safety considerations. Things like avoiding getting caught in waves and handling emergencies require professional guidance.
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Prepare physically. Surfing is an extremely physically demanding sport. Just paddling requires strong upper body strength, while balance requires core strength support.
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Safety first. Always check weather and ocean conditions before entering the water, and follow local safety warnings. I've seen tourists ignore red flag warnings and end up being rescued by lifeguards.
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Maintain an open and learning attitude. Don't give up trying for fear of failure. Remember, every professional surfer started by falling.
Future
This Hawaii trip made me fall completely in love with surfing. Although I'm back in an inland city now, I'm already planning my next surfing trip. Maybe to Kuta Beach in Bali, or the Gold Coast in Australia.
Surfing isn't just a sport, it's a life attitude. It teaches you how to live harmoniously with nature, how to break through challenges, and how to persevere through failure. As famous Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku said: "In Hawaii, we greet friends, loved ones and strangers with Aloha, which means love. Aloha is the key word to the universal spirit of real hospitality, which makes Hawaii renowned as the world's center of understanding and fellowship. Try meeting or leaving people with Aloha. You'll be surprised by their reaction. I believe it and it is my creed."
If you're interested in surfing, don't hesitate, just try it. Maybe you'll be the next person soaring through the waves. Let's experience the ocean's charm and the joy and challenges that surfing brings together.
Remember, every surfing expert was once a beginner. What matters isn't your current level, but whether you're willing to take the first step. The ocean will always be there waiting for you, and surfing will bring you a lifetime of unforgettable experiences.
Are you ready? Let's embark on this wonderful surfing journey together!
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