Original Intention
Have you ever encountered situations like this: Standing in front of the Trevi Fountain in Rome, wanting to take a commemorative photo, only to find the frame filled with tourists? Or at the Grand Canyon, wanting to capture a stunning sunset but feeling helpless because the sky is too bright and the ground too dark?
These are problems I frequently encounter in travel photography. Through years of photography practice, I've discovered that proper use of filters can help solve these issues. Today I'll share my understanding and experience with filters.
Understanding
When it comes to filters, many people might think of beauty filters on phones. However, in professional photography, filters are physical devices that help us control the light entering the lens to achieve specific photographic effects.
I remember my first time using a filter was at St. Mark's Square in Venice. That day I wanted to take a photo of an empty square, but there were too many tourists. Later, using a neutral density filter with long exposure, I finally captured a photo with almost no people visible. At that moment, I truly experienced the magic of filters.
Equipment
In my camera bag, I always carry three essential types of filters: neutral density filters, graduated neutral density filters, and polarizing filters. They're like a photographer's three magical tools, each with its unique function.
Neutral density filters are like sunglasses for your lens, uniformly reducing light transmission. I usually prepare ND filters in three different strengths: 2-stop, 6-stop, and 10-stop. Why so many? Because different scenes require different levels of light reduction. For example, when taking that square photo in Venice, I used a 10-stop ND filter with a 30-second exposure to make moving tourists "disappear."
Graduated neutral density filters are like gradient sunglasses, darker at the top and lighter at the bottom. They're especially useful in landscape photography. Last year, when shooting sunrise at Qinghai Lake, without this filter, either the sky would be overexposed or the lake would be too dark. Using a graduated ND filter finally achieved perfect balance between sky and lake. I now usually carry 2-stop and 3-stop graduated ND filters, which can handle most situations.
The polarizing filter might be the most magical type. It can eliminate reflections, increase saturation, make skies bluer, and water more transparent. I remember at Jiuzhaigou, when rotating the polarizing filter, the colors of the Five-Colored Pool suddenly became extraordinarily vibrant, and the details at the bottom became clearly visible, like magic.
Techniques
Regarding specific usage techniques, I think the most important thing is understanding each filter's characteristics and suitable scenarios.
Neutral density filters are best for: 1. Scenes requiring long exposure, like waterfalls and flowing clouds 2. Crowded locations where you want to "remove" people through long exposure 3. When shooting with large apertures in bright light and need to reduce light
A tip for using ND filters: compose and focus without the filter first, then attach it. Dark ND filters make the viewfinder very dark, affecting composition and focusing.
Graduated neutral density filters are mainly used for landscape photography, especially in these situations: 1. Shooting sunrises and sunsets 2. Seascape photography with large brightness differences between sky and sea 3. Mountain photography where the sky is much brighter than the ground
When using graduated ND filters, finding the correct gradient transition line position is crucial. I usually measure the brightness difference between sky and ground using the camera's metering function, then choose the appropriate filter strength. For example, use a 2-stop filter for a 2-stop difference, or a 3-stop for a 3-stop difference.
Polarizing filters are suitable for: 1. Shooting skies to make clouds more dimensional 2. Photographing water surfaces to eliminate reflections 3. Capturing plants to increase leaf saturation 4. Photographing buildings to reduce glass reflections
When using polarizing filters, pay attention to light direction. The polarizing effect is strongest when sunlight is at a 90-degree angle to the lens. Rotate the filter while observing the effect changes to choose the optimal result.
Practice
Let me share some actual shooting cases.
Last year at Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, I shot a sea of clouds. Arriving at the viewing platform at 5 AM, I found complex lighting: very bright sky but dark mountains and clouds. I used a 3-stop graduated ND filter, aligning the gradient line with the mountain peaks. This preserved sky detail while making the sea of clouds more dimensional.
When photographing ancient buildings in Suzhou, I often use polarizing filters. At the Humble Administrator's Garden, the water reflections were beautiful but glare severely affected the image. After attaching the polarizing filter, not only did the water reflections become clearer, but the riverside plants appeared more verdant.
Most memorable was shooting the aurora in Iceland. Because long exposures were needed to capture aurora dynamics, even with maximum aperture, exposure times of 15-20 seconds were required. When foreground lights were present, they easily overexposed. I used a 2-stop ND filter to control foreground exposure, finally capturing photos with perfect balance between aurora and ground features.
Recommendations
If you want to start using filters, my advice is:
Start with a quality polarizing filter. It's the simplest to use with the most immediate effects. After becoming familiar with polarizing filters, consider adding ND and graduated ND filters.
When purchasing filters, choose reputable brands. Poor quality filters can affect image quality and cause color casts. I've tried many brands and settled on B+W and NiSi products. Though expensive, considering lifespan and image quality performance, the investment is worthwhile.
When using filters, pay attention to protection and cleaning. Filter surfaces easily collect fingerprints and dust, so prepare dedicated lens tissues and cleaning kits. Clean carefully after each use to ensure image quality isn't affected next time.
Insights
Through years of photography practice, I increasingly feel that filters aren't just tools, but important aids in breaking limitations and realizing creativity.
Many might say that with today's advanced post-processing software, many filter effects can be achieved in post. But I'd say that achieving ideal effects in-camera through physical filters not only saves post-processing time but more importantly allows us to focus more on the image itself while shooting.
Moreover, some effects are difficult to achieve perfectly in post-processing. For example, long exposure effects are impossible in bright sunlight without ND filters. The reflection-eliminating effects of polarizing filters are also hard to simulate in post.
I remember once at Qinghai Lake, a photography enthusiast saw me using filters and came over curious to learn. We talked for a long time, sharing many usage tips. This reminded me that photography isn't just about recording beauty, but a process of continuous learning and sharing.
Future Outlook
With technological development, some electronically controlled variable ND filters have emerged, allowing different light reduction levels through rotation adjustment. More intelligent filter products might appear in the future, making usage more convenient.
But regardless of technological advancement, I think the most important thing is understanding each filter's characteristics and knowing which filter to use in which scenario. This allows for confident shooting and creating unique works.
What do you think? Feel free to share your experiences and insights using filters in the comments. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Let's continue improving together on our photography journey.
